date:Sep 19, 2012
thigh accented with lemon, thyme jus and wild mushrooms, which was overcome by a too-salty mustard sauce.
However, Sundell's brilliance returns in some of the traditional dishes, including potato dumplings ($12) so light it's hard to believe they don't melt into the brown butter. They're accented with lardons, lingonberries and onion ragout. A big dollop of lingonberries also accompany the Swedish meatballs ($15) on potato puree and a rich pan gravy, a preparation that rises above the cliche.