The duck's just the start of chef's broad Chinese menu
date:Mar 11, 2014
life, he explains, which is why not everybody takes the trouble.

Li is just as fussy about the ducks themselves. The quality has to start at the source, and we buy our birds from one of the top duck farms in China, he says. They must be 40 to 45 days old, and between 2 and 2.5 kilograms - smaller birds are too lean. But you don't want ducks that are too old either - those are soup ducks!

The chef's English is halting, but his hands are bilingual as he gesticulates about his birds.

They ar
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